Cat Rehoming Information

After years of rescue experience and working with vets and behaviourists, we do not rehome kittens under 10 months of age as single kittens. We only place them in pairs or into homes that already have a young, sociable resident cat. Here’s why.

What is “single kitten syndrome”?

“Single kitten syndrome” describes a range of behavioural and emotional problems that can develop when a young cat is raised or spends most of its early life alone without a feline companion. Kittens learn important social, emotional and physical skills from other cats. 

Without that company they are more likely to develop:

• Separation anxiety and excessive attachment to people (demanding attention, following owners everywhere, vocalising, distress when left).
• Over‑arousal or under‑stimulation (hyperactivity, obsessive play on people’s hands, destructive chewing or scratching, or lethargy).
• Poor social skills with other cats (fear, aggression, or inappropriate play that can injure other cats).
• Stress‑related issues (excessive grooming leading to bald patches, toileting outside the litter tray).
• Incomplete development of normal cat behaviours such as bite inhibition, appropriate play, and self‑soothing.

Why kittens need another cat companion

• Social learning: Kittens learn bite inhibition, play limits and cat-to-cat communication from littermates or other young cats. This helps them behave appropriately as adults.
• Mental stimulation: Play with a feline companion provides physical exercise and mental challenge that complements human playtime.
• Emotional security: A cat companion reduces stress and helps a kitten self‑settle when people aren’t home.
• Health and welfare: Stress and behavioural problems can lead to medical issues or broken human‑cat relationships, sometimes resulting in rehoming.

Why 10 months?

Kittens go through rapid developmental phases. Although the critical socialisation window is earlier (roughly 2–14 weeks), adolescent social and play development continues well into the first year. By around 10 months many cats have more stable behaviour and coping skills; placing them in pairs until this stage reduces the risk of lasting behavioural problems.

Please keep in mind that we assess all cats and kittens and our care on an individual basis and will always do what's best for the cat in question. As a result, age is not the only factor when determining a cat's fit for a potential forever home, and not all kittens over 10 months of age may be deemed suitable to be adopted as only cats.

How this policy benefits adopters and kittens

• Fewer long‑term behaviour problems to manage (less destructive behaviour, inappropriate elimination or extreme separation distress).
• Better long‑term match between cat and household - happier cats mean happier owners.
• Lower risk of cats being returned to the rescue because of unexpected behaviour.

If you want a kitten - options and advice

• Adopt two kittens together: Two littermates or two similar‑aged kittens are ideal; they keep each other company and practice normal behaviours.
• Adopt a kitten into a home with a young, sociable resident cat: A young resident cat who tolerates or enjoys kittens gives the newcomer a feline friend.
• Choose an older kitten (around 10 months+) or an adult cat: Older kittens and adults can be better suited to single‑cat households.
• Foster or volunteer: If you are not ready to commit to adoption, but you are in a position to help kittens now, consider fostering with us instead.

Preparing for two kittens (or a kitten + resident cat):

• Supplies: at least two litter trays (plus one extra), multiple feeding stations, two water bowls, several hiding/sleeping spots, scratching posts and vertical space.
• Enrichment: interactive play sessions, puzzle feeders, and safe climbing areas to burn off energy.
• Routine: predictable feeding and play times help reduce stress and prevent over‑stimulation.

FAQs

• Can I adopt one kitten if I’m home all day? Even with lots of human attention, kittens benefit from a feline companion for species‑typical learning and play.
• What if I already have a cat? We assess the resident cat’s temperament; a calm, sociable young adult can be a good companion. We will advise on compatibility and introductions.
• Are littermates better than two unrelated kittens? Littermates often bond strongly, but two unrelated kittens of similar age and temperament can also be a great match, we have many already bonded kittens looking for forever homes together.
• Will kittens raised in pairs be more independent? Kittens that grow up with a feline companion tend to have better coping skills and are less likely to develop extreme separation-related behaviours.

This policy is not in place for our benefit, but for the long‑term welfare of the kittens in our care, and to give you as their adopter the best chance of a successful, lifetime match!

All cats are unique and all cats have personalities of their own, so the first thing to establish is  “Why do you want another cat?” Well, why wouldn't you!? But why now? 

It may be that your resident cat is getting on in years and you are looking to add some young energy to your home, it may be that your young cat is just a bit too much, it may be that while scrolling on your phone you have spotted the most adorable eyes peering back at you and you have just thought “Yes! Now is the time!”, or maybe the universal cat distribution system has landed a new kitty in your path and you want to make it work.

None of these are the wrong reasons to get a new cat or kitten, but you do need to hit pause for just a moment and make sure it is the right time.

Does your cat want a friend? 

Unless they are super social, have been around other cats their whole lives or are still young, the short answer is probably not!

But if  YOU want another cat, that's still ok, once you are prepared that the outcome may not be an Instagram worthy pic of two cats intertwined in a sleepy embrace - instead the result is more housemates that co-exist but don't interact. 

Prepare for the worst and hope for the best! 

Cats can live in multicat households and co-exist peacefully, even if they are not best friends, once proper introductions are done and the match is right and the resources (food, sleeping locations, space, litter trays and human interaction) are divided appropriately. Not necessarily evenly, but appropriately…

The key to this is finding the right match! 

Bringing a rambunctious young male into the home of your senior male cat is going to start them off on the wrong foot! Same with females.. The last thing your cat wants to see coming in the door is competition, so we always recommend going for opposite sex pairings where possible. 

Assess your Readiness

Your current cat(s) are social, territorial, shy, playful, or aggressive? Or a wonderful mix of it all? Cats who have lived with others before usually adjust more easily, but that's not a guarantee, remember, the new cat or kitten will have a personality all of their own! 

Do you have the space to allow for slow introductions? Bringing your new feline friend home will require a “safe space” for them to have the time to decompress and adjust to their new environment and also allow your cat/s the time to get used to the smell and sounds of a new feline in their territory. This process can take days or sometimes weeks. Can you give up that space for that long? How long? As long as it takes. 

Do you have the time to split between a new needy kitten that won't be used to being on their own, will probably cry for the first day or so, will need regular interaction. (If you choose to adopt two already bonded kittens together, this likely won’t be a problem), or a cat that is going to be going through the stress of a new move and a new home and potentially a new threat.

If the new adult cat is not used to sharing with another cat they may feel overwhelmed, or they may be used to being the boss in their previous home and now have to find their new position in an already established home. 

The space also needs to be a space that is “Low value” to your resident cat(s) - preventing them entering their favourite room or stopping them accessing their favorite napping spot because a new feline has claimed their territory is a recipe for resentment!

If you have a small living space and want to introduce a new cat then it is recommended that you reduce the access to the area that you will be starting the new cat in at least a week, and ideally 3 weeks before bringing them home, so they don't directly associate the change with the new arrival. If all else fails, the bathroom is always a good place to start, once your cat's litter tray doesn't live there!

So what's the best choice for a new addition?

We say it time and time again and it's never just a ploy to get more kittens adopted, bringing in two younger kittens where an older cat lives makes the introduction process much, much simpler.

You don't have to worry as much about the kittens being alone while introductions and settling time are happening as they have one another. Kittens will be less interested in the resident cat as they will have one another, and the cat can choose if and when they want to interact. 

If you really, really, really can only commit to one kitten, then the best choice is a slightly older kitten of the opposite gender to your most bossy cat that is not going to look at the resident cat as a maternal figure, or an adult cat of the opposite gender is probably the best way to go. 

If you are hoping to give an adult cat a second chance then talk to us about their personality and give us as much information on your resident cats as possible so we can help determine if the match will be a good fit. 

If you resident cat is a senior

If your resident cat is older, we often recommend adopting a bonded pair of kittens rather than just one, here is why: 

1. Energy levels are a better match: Kittens are bundles of energy - they wrestle, chase, and play, hunt constantly. An older cat often has less stamina and may get annoyed if the kitten pesters them for play all the time. With two kittens, they’ll burn off energy with each other instead of harassing your senior cat.
2. Social Development: Kittens learn boundaries and feline manners best through play with other kittens. They practice hunting, wrestling, and communication in ways that a single kitten can’t with an older cat. Your adult cat doesn’t have to be the “teacher” all the time and is not constantly pestered by the kitten.
3. Reduced Stress for the Resident Cat: An only kitten is likely to focus all their attention on the older cat, either as a maternal figure or a playmate which can be overwhelming. With two kittens, your older cat can choose how much interaction they want without being constantly pursued. This allows the relationship to grow more naturally.
4. Lifelong Companionship: The kittens will grow up bonded, giving them a strong support system. If your older cat eventually slows down with age, the younger pair will still have each other to play and cuddle with, this prevents loneliness in the long run when the household dynamics shift.
5. Easier Transitions & Behavior Benefits: Kittens raised together often show fewer behavior problems (less destructive boredom, fewer cries for attention). They keep each other entertained while you’re at work or asleep. They’re less likely to over-depend on your older cat or you for constant engagement.

Future Dynamics

One Kitten: A single kitten may become lonely later as an older cat slows down.

Two Kittens: Stay bonded, happier long-term

One kitten = high energy focused on your older cat.

Two kittens = provide each other with play, learning, and companionship which means your older cat can enjoy them on their own terms instead of being overwhelmed.

Multi-Cat Household Preparation

• Litter Boxes: One litter tray per cat + one extra, in separate locations.
• Food & Water: Multiple stations spread out to reduce guarding and stress.
• Play & Enrichment: Individual playtime with each cat + group play.

Introducing two cats is a slow process and the key to success is time and patience! 

1. Scent Swapping: Exchange bedding or rub a cloth on one cat and let the other smell it. Use treats to build positive associations with the new scent.
2. Controlled Sight: Allow the cats to see each other through a door crack or pet gate. Never confine one cat in a crate or carrier and allow others to approach, this is completely stressful for the confined cat and will make them feel trapped and  see the other cat as a threat. All animals should be able to leave the interaction at all times if they feel they need to. 
3. Short Supervised Meetings: Let them interact briefly under supervision, rewarding calm behavior and distracting with toys and treats. You don't necessarily want them approaching one another, you just want them comfortable doing their own thing in each other's company.

Gradual Freedom: Increase time together until they can safely coexist. Expect hissing or swatting at first this is normal as they set boundaries but should never be allowed escalate to full contact.

Common Challenges & Solutions

• Hissing/Growling: Give space, slow introductions.
• Fighting: Separate immediately and restart introduction step 1.
• Resource Guarding: Add more litter boxes, food bowls, or resting spots.
• Stress Signs (hiding, overgrooming, spraying): Provide more vertical space and calming pheromones (e.g., Feliway), or consult a vet/behaviorist.

Benefits of Multi-Cat Living

• Companionship: Some cats enjoy playmates.
• Entertainment for each other when you’re not home.
• Can reduce boredom-related destructive behaviors.

When It Might Not Work

• Some cats truly prefer being “only cats.”
• If aggression persists after a slow introduction, it may not be a good match.
• It’s okay if harmony means peaceful coexistence rather than cuddling together. But if it's causing stress to any of the parties then please contact us to discuss further options.

Successful multi-cat homes rely on gradual introductions, enough resources for all, and respect for each cat’s personality.

Adding to your home at any stage is an exciting and wonderful time but it can also be a bit of a stressful time for everyone involved, so it's important to be prepared! 

Cat or Kitten?

Those massive eyes and ears on a tiny squishable body that absolutely NO ONE can resist! Yes, kittens melt even the coldest hearts! 

But is a kitten the right choice for you? Or would an older or more mature cat fit your home better?

Does everyone in your home agree on adding a cat?  

Cats can live 15+ years, is this something you as a family are prepared for?

Cats, no matter how small/young/friendly or feral, impact the dynamic of your home so it's important that the whole family is in agreement and prepared to play a part in the settling in period.

Cats with access to the outdoors WILL hunt, they will bring you “gifts”, both dead and alive, no collars/bells or other gimmicks will prevent this. The only way to not have it happen is to keep your cat indoors and meet their hunting needs with structured play and exercise.  

Cats will go on your counters and surfaces, You can work really hard at training them not to but there are no guarantees they are not sitting there when you are at work or gone out shopping. 

Cats need to see the vet, even strictly indoor cats do need to see a vet and accidents can happen anywhere. Whether it's for routine vet work or they swallowed something they shouldn't… and the risk is higher for those cats that are allowed outdoors for injury. Vets are expensive and surgery even more so. 

Have you factored insurance or savings for vets into your budget?

Cats are 100% trainable but they are much smarter than dogs (sorry dogs, we love you too!) - are you prepared to put in the work required to help your cat adapt and live harmoniously in your home? 

All cats and kittens must stay indoors for a minimum of 8 weeks 

Cats are territorial but also have a homing instinct that they are not exactly in control of! 

Letting a cat out into an unfamiliar environment before they have fully settled in and gained confidence to stand their ground can lead to them getting lost or “running away”. This is why we recommend 8 weeks minimum before beginning the gradual introduction to the outdoors. 

This means extra caution when opening doors and windows during this time so that curiosity doesn't win and cats or kittens escape. This is also why having them in one room at busier times of the day when you can't give them your attention also helps. 

Is a kitten right for your home? 

Kittens need regular feeding, they sleep in long bursts and play in short bursts. 

Sleep is as important for kittens as it is for toddlers, and waking a sleeping kitten will result in a kitten that is not interested in interacting, or worse - a tired, frustrated and cranky kitten. 

This means that kittens will sleep the majority of the day away and depending on your schedule they may not always be awake when you want to interact. They also may want to play when you are busy doing something else, leading them to occupy themselves and probably get into places they shouldn’t… Kittens and cats learn pretty quickly that doing the wrong thing can get them attention and any attention is good attention! It's important that you are ready and happy to give up your time to play and teach your kitten the right way to be a cat! 

Kittens are POINTY - tiny needle like claws and teeth that are used to investigate everything! They stick to fabric like velcro and they are not yet fully in control of when and where the pointies come out!  Kittens are learning to use their weapons for the first few months. which is why it's so important that they have one another to “practice” on and to learn what's nice play, and what is not so nice (see “I want to adopt one kitten, and they will be my only cat”).  

Without another kitten to hone their skills, kittens will look to the next available creature to practice, your adult dog or cat won't tolerate that sort of play, and the grownups are far too big! So the next best thing will be your kids… This can lead to blood and tears and a fear based dynamic where your kitten becomes the stuff of nightmares, not the dream pet you had hoped for.

Kids and kittens make wonderful companions if introduced properly and a mutual respect established, kittens are also small and easily injured if not handled properly. Kittens, especially those with no other outlet can see children, especially young children, as a playmate to practice their sword skills and clamp strength. Where children are involved we always recommend 2 kittens rather than one to prevent unwanted behaviour. 

Or is an adult cat a better fit for your home?

The real beauty of adopting an adult or more mature cat is that you get what you see. 

Adult cats are incredibly adaptable and can adjust to a new environment just as easily as a kitten. They are more confident and, due to their size, harder to spook and are less likely to be accidentally stepped on while running under your child's feet or dropped if carried as your small child is less likely to try to pick them up!

Adult cats are also more likely to seek out people for affection and are generally more relaxed. 

They are happier to work with and adapt faster to your family's schedule, meaning they are more likely to be awake when you are home and save their naps for when you are otherwise engaged.  

Myth busted: 

Adult cats are less playful! Cats are natural born hunters, if you play the game right they will absolutely play with you - they are also less likely to use your children's hands and feet as prey!  

Cats or kittens with resident pets 

Whether your home is already home to a cat, dog, or any other furry or feathered friend, your new addition will need a safe and ideally small space to acclimatise to their new home. 

Cats are perceived as predators, but they are also prey animals and find comfort and reassurance in smaller spaces until they establish confidence and territory.

Leaving one environment to another will, for any cat or kitten, require a level of adjustment and time to settle. 

Bathrooms, Utility Rooms, or spare bedrooms tend to work best (once they are not already routinely used by resident animals).

This space can be visited by the family for the first 24 to 48 hours depending on the animal, to interact and build a bond with the new additions, before offering them the choice to leave the space once they are confident enough. 

It's important that the cat is never removed from the space by force during the settling in period and that they can get back into it easily to access their food and water and litter when needed, stair gates are incredibly useful during this time especially if you have a resident dog or small children! 

It's important when they first start to explore that they are brought back to the area, especially the litter tray on a regular basis to reinforce and use and prevent accidents occurring.

Don't Rush the introductions! 

Resident Predators (cats and dogs) 

Follow your resident animals queues and never force them into a space or room with a new cat/kitten. 

If your pet is behaving in a stressed, aggressive or generally off form manner you need to wait for them to be more relaxed before starting any of the steps below. This can sometimes take a number of days to weeks depending on your pets personality. 

Introducing two cats is a slow process and the key to success is time and patience! 

Dogs tend to accept a bit faster but it's very important that the dog is calm and relaxed before any introductions are made. 

1. Scent Swapping: Exchange bedding or rub a cloth on one pet and let the other smell it. Use treats to build positive associations with the new scent.
2. Controlled Sight: Allow the pets to see each other through a door crack or pet gate. Never confine one animal in a crate or carrier and allow others to approach, this is completely stressful for the confined animal and will make them feel trapped and  see the other animal as a threat. All animals should be able to leave the interaction at all times if they feel they need to. 
3. Short Supervised Meetings: Let them interact briefly under supervision, rewarding calm behavior and distracting with toys and treats. You don't necessarily want them approaching one another, you just want them comfortable doing their own thing in each other's company.
4. Gradual Freedom: Increase time together until they can safely coexist. Expect hissing or swatting at first this is normal as they set boundaries but should never be allowed escalate to full contact/ 
   

Resident Prey (rabbits, hamsters, fish, birds) 

When bringing a cat or kitten/s into an environment with other animals it's important to remember that they were here first! The cat should never be considered more important than or prioritised over the animals that have been your loyal and loving companions. 

Prioritise Safety and prevent accidents.

1. Keep your cat or kittens out of your other animals space: The goal is to prevent it from happening at all but in the event that everything goes wrong and the cat ends up in the other animals space, your animal enclosure is their number one defence against predators and it should be structurally stable enough to withstand a cat climbing on it or sitting on it! 
2. Never let your cat intrude another pets space: Cats and kittens should be discouraged from approaching small animal enclosures and should never be allowed to "stalk" or sit and stare into enclosures of confined animals. This is unbelievably stressful and cruel to resident animals and cause a massive amount of stress. Instead, redirect your cat/kittens away from the enclosures and meet their need to stalk and hunt with toys, puzzles and treats.
3. Never leave them unsupervised: Especially in the first few weeks when everyone is still settling in and getting over the stress of the move. 

Cats have a natural instinct to hunt animals smaller than them and this instinct starts at a very young age. 

People often feel its best to take in a small kitten to train them to live with the other animals, but often it's the kittens that end up taking longer to learn and cause more injury to the animals unintentionally by wanting to play. For kittens, hunting is a game and it is something that should be practiced and done multiple times a day with no regard for anyone else's schedule or time or safety. Adopting two kittens can help as this means they have one another to play with and are more likely to ignore the rest of the pets.

Adult cats will also be a risk in the beginning, but are less likely to hunt for fun in your home once appropriate boundaries are established with your resident animals. But keeping doors closed and cats confined when unsupervised will help greatly reduce the risk. Cage tops and tank lids are vital for your smallest residents!

When your cat/kitten is in the same room as your other pets, it's important that they are kept distracted and not allow you to fixate or stalk your small animal. You want them to ignore them, not play with them. Discourage your cat/kitten from approaching the other animals and distract them with treats or toys at the other side of the room. If your rabbit or guinea pig approaches your cat/kitten, keep the cat/kittens focused on you. 

Preparing Your Home For Adoption 

A new cat means new resources: 

Food bowls, water and litter boxes that are new or thoroughly cleaned and disinfected so that they hold no trace of previous or current pets are needed to allow your new additions to feel safe and welcome in their new environment. 

Personal preference plays a part in what sort of equipment you purchase/ use and it's always recommended to start with the basics and then build from there. A lot of money can go into “getting ready” and often the more expensive items sit unused for weeks or months.

The Basics 

A carrier

You wouldn't arrive to pick up a dog without a lead and collar - your cat NEEDS a carrier. 

No cat or kitten or any small animal leaves our care without this vital and basic piece of equipment. But what's the best one? There are all sorts of choices out there from bags to boxes and zips, clasps, latches…So what's one you should get? 

To take your cat/ kitten/s from the cattery to your home we really do recommend a hard plastic cat carrier. 

These are easy to clean in case the maiden journey isn't smooth and your new cat has an accident, and they are designed to offer your pet the best overall protection and safety in travel.  

Bags, back packs and other novelty carriers are readily available and can be a great addition to your gear, but are not always safe or secure enough for your cat's maiden voyage home. If unsure about the one you have chosen or would like advice before purchase then please do get in touch. 

We do offer second hand carriers for a reduced price to those who arrive with unsuitable transport, or would prefer to purchase one second hand. A carrier is a vital piece of equipment that all cat owners should own, as you never know when you will need to transport your cat to the vet or safely evacuate them from your house in case of an emergency. Carries are a must-have, not a nice-to-have. 

Litter Tray 

What's best? Who knows!! But here is what we learned through years of experience working with cats: 

Your cat will never choose a closed top litter tray, it goes against everything their instincts tell them. 

No one wants to be caught off guard sitting on the toilet and the same can be said for your cat. 

Closed lids, while they do offer the humans some help with reducing the image of the tray, can make your cat feel vulnerable and unsafe. They only offer one entrance and exit meaning your cat once inside is trapped and they are unable to see oncoming possible threats, meaning they will opt to go elsewhere or hold it in which can lead to UTIs and constipation. 

Having said that, we know that some people prefer them. Is it the wrong choice? No, but you will need to be prepared to take it slow especially if you have other animals in the home. Start with the lid off and gradually build up to the lid on then, the door closed. If your cat stops using it at any point, then go back to the previous step. 

Robot trays, self cleaning trays and trays with moving parts should only ever be introduced once your cat(s) are confident, comfortable and settled in their home as they can scare the cat into not using them and finding somewhere less desirable to go! This type of tray should also never be used with younger kittens due to safety risks of them getting caught in the mechanism. 

Litter 

Litter is going to be human preference to a point. At the cattery we use a basic stone based non-clumping litter. Is it the best, that depends on who you ask (is it what we use at home? Nope!) However it is what our cats are used to and hasn't let us down yet. 

If you are adopting a kitten or kittens then it is recommended you avoid any clumping litter until they are older as they have the potential to ingest it and it will cause potentially fatal blockages in their stomach.

For the first few days (or first bag)  it is recommended that you stick to a basic scent free stone litter. 

Whatever litter you choose to continue with, make sure you introduce your cat to it slowly, starting by mixing it with the old litter 5% new to old and building from there until it's 100% the new litter. 

If you find they are not using it and you have followed the litter tray advice you may need to look at a different texture or smelling type of litter. 

Bowls 

If you have animals in your home already your new cat/kittens will need their own bowls to start. 

This is because they will be confined for the first few days so wont have access to the other animals food and water, but also so they have ownership of items of high value and don't feel they have to compete for resources. 

Water should be in a deep non-tip bowl. 

Dry food and wet food ideally should be offered in a flat or low edged bowl to prevent whisker fatigue and allow your cats to eat comfortably.

Often people say “my cat doesn't finish their food but is still looking for more”, this is partly due to the fact that sticking their faces into a deep bowl to reach those last few pieces is uncomfortable and challenging and just not worth the hassle. You don't need to break the bank, saucers and plates (often available in charity shops like ours!)  work just as well as fancy bowls 

If you are adopting more than one cat or kitten - one large water bowl, one large dry food bowl big enough for 2 portions (once they are bonded and happy to share), and 1 small wet food bowl per cat is recommended.  

Toys/Trees/Scratchers 

Have you seen the options out there?! Trees as big as your house and toys of every shape, size, texture, sound and smell! 

It's exciting and slightly overwhelming, for your cat too…

Take a step back and keep it simple! 

Your cat is going to need toys to entertain themselves and they are going to need an appropriate place to scratch and maintain their claws, but they don't need you to go bankrupt in the process. Bringing your cat home only requires the basics and they can be as simple as handmade balls of foil, cardboard tubes folded with treats inside and pingpong balls or tiny teddies that no one has looked at in years. 

By all means, buy them a couple of bits and we really do recommend a wand toy especially for the first few days if your kitty is a bit on the shy side (but please ensure that your new family member is never left along with a string toy, as they can be a strangulation risk if your cat gets tangled while playing). 

Scratchers and trees 

We get asked time and time again “how do you get them to use the cat trees in the cattery?” 

It's very simple, We don't have any other furniture ! We don't have shelves to climb, curtains, couches and counters and given the option cats will usually choose the cat tree last. Again, it's a case of starting small and building from there. A simple scratching post or mat for the first few weeks is purrfect and you can then decide if you need to go bigger.